Tensioner Compatibility
The RD Hybrid Tensioner is designed to fit as many frames as possible. We have created a general guide on how to fit the RD Hybrid Tensioner. If you need any further advice on fitting, please get in touch.
Below is our guidance for fitting to the most common frame and hub combinations. Important: For certain chain stay length and sprocket combinations, you may need to take links out of the chain, or add a half link before installing the tensioner. You can check if your current chain tension is correct by following this guidance:
With your rear wheel in position, take off any tensioner(s) currently fitted and pull down on the chain at 125mm / 5" from the rear axle. If the angle that the chain makes coming off the rear sprocket is under 20 degrees from horizontal then the RD Hybrid will work well with any size rear sprocket, 20 to 30 degrees is possible with rear sprockets 16T and over. If the angle is over 30 degrees, this product isn't suitable, and you will need a double wheel tensioner to ensure there is enough 'wrap' of the chain around your rear sprocket. You can fit a half link to your chain to shorten it, and achieve the correct sprocket contact angle. We sell half links for 3/32" and 1/8" chains here.
1 - 135mm OLD frames with vertical dropouts: You may need to remove spacers from the drive side of the hub when fitting the tensioner to get the spacing correct. Frames can be flexed in or out slightly to fit if required. If you need hub spacers, we sell them here. For hubs where removal of the drive side spacer is not possible, the end of the axle must sit into the dropout a minimum of half the thickness dropout. If it does not with the tensioner installed, the end cap of the hub may need to be modified, or an alternative spacer used.
2 - 135mm OLD frames with horizontal dropouts: As above. If you are using snail cams, or a BMX style chain tensioner, remove the drive side tensioner, and slide the wheel all the way forward in the dropout before installing the tensioner. You may need to remove any bolts from inside the dropout if snail cams were being used. You can leave the non drive side snail cam in place, or remove it if you choose. If the wheel sits over to the drive side once set all the way forward in the dropouts, you may need to use a snail cam on the non drive side to adjust it straight with the tensioner fitted. You may need to remove spacers from the drive side of the hub when fitting the tensioner to get the spacing correct. Frames can be flexed in or out slightly to fit if required. If you need hub spacers, we sell them here.
3 - 116mm OLD frames with horizontal dropouts: If you are using snail cams, or a BMX style chain tensioner, remove the drive side tensioner, and slide the wheel all the way forward in the dropout before installing the tensioner. You may need to remove any bolts from inside the dropout if snail cams were being used. You can leave the non drive side snail cam in place, or remove it if you choose. If the wheel sits over to the drive side once set all the way forward in the dropouts, you may need to use a snail cam on the non drive side to adjust it straight with the tensioner fitted. You may need to remove spacers from the drive side of the hub when fitting the tensioner to get the spacing correct. Frames can be flexed in or out slightly to fit if required. If you need hub spacers, we sell them here.
4 - 116mm OLD frames with vertical dropouts: These frames usually use a roller tensioner that fits into the drive side chain stay. Make sure that the RD Hybrid Tensioner arm will not interfere with any frame features or welds in this area. You may need to remove spacers from the drive side of the hub when fitting the tensioner to get the spacing correct. Frames can be flexed in or out slightly to fit if required. If you need hub spacers, we sell them here.
Maintenance
The RD Hybrid Tensioner is assembled in house by us using a light Teflon grease in the main pivot, and a small amount of thread locking compound on the main axle nut. We also use a small amount of thread locking compound on the end of the spoke to prevent the nipple working loose. This means your tensioner should run smoothly for hours of riding!
If you do need to service your tensioner, make sure to apply a small amount of grease to the main pivot, and we recommend cleaning off the old thread locking compound from the main pivot, and applying some fresh medium strength (blue) compound before reinstalling. If you remove the spoke nipple holding the spring in place on the skid, make sure to replace this with a new, brass nipple. Do NOT use an aluminium spoke nipple!
We keep stock of all the individual parts of the RD Hybrid Tensioner. If you require a part, please get in touch, and we'll be able to help!
There are currently no questions relating to this product.
Based on 2 customer ratings
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£6.00
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TartyBikes Ltd, Units 3-4, Club Street, Bamber Bridge, Preston, PR5 6FN
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BMX version - So good!
Posted by OL
Impressive little thing. I've bought 4 now in total. 3 here with me in NZ so I'm set for a while, and 1 going to a mate in Australia.<br /><br /> Being sprung by spoke is perfect. It just does the job and does it well.<br/><br /> Plus cool to have a Tarty Bikes product on my BMX race bike, repping my old trials days in the UK 😎
Reply from TartyBikes
Thanks for the great review, Oliver! It's really cool to hear our tensioners are being well received worldwide!
Ben
Tidy tensioner
Posted by Gary
Nice tensioner, low profile, light, and easy to fit. This paired with the axle blockers has cured the issues with the axle slipping forward and the chain being out of tension all the damn time. I had to bent the bracket slightly to get it to clear the frame and line up with the chain, but the stainless is thin enough to bend in a vice, and it now sits perfect. Thanks guys!!
Reply from TartyBikes
Hi Gary
Thanks for the great review! Although the tensioner arms come with a 'pre-set' bend, they are really easy to tune, good to hear you found that to be the case!
Ben