- Lever body made of Carbotecture
, offering a great strength-to-weight ratio!
- New forged aluminium lever blade matches the aesthetics of the 'MT' range of disc brakes (but please note the MT range of levers are not compatible with this brake).
- Lever blade is notably broader and slight more rounded than previous models, making it very comfortable.
- '2-finger' lever blade model. The leverage ratio is higher than 2005 model 2-finger brakes though.
- '4-finger' model offers more power due to the extra leverage, but a slightly less firm lever feel.
- Two-bolt handlebar clamp means you don't have to remove your grip to get the lever on/off.
- New TPA system has the functional components made exclusively from steel to improve durability, and has indexed 90° turns to ensure it stays put.
- Reach is taken care of by the T25 screw in the front of the lever blade. Unscrewing the screw moves the end of the lever blade closer to the handlebar.
- Bleeding system is the same as the pre-2011 brakes - attach a full syringe to the slave cylinder, remove the bleed screw in the lever, then push fluid through from the bottom. Please note that a regular bleed hose will NOT screw into the bleed port, trying to do so will damage the thread.
- Comes with Magura black pads, this is a standard compound pad. We recommend upgrading for Trials use.
- Available with Evo2 Adaptor kit to allow you fit the brake to V-Brake style studs.
- Lever works for either way up for both left and right hand braking, simply turn it over!
- Brake cylinders are compatible with all 4-Bolt clamps (Echo, TNN, Magura, Try-All, Tensile, Chorrillas, etc) and Magura Evo2 clamps.
- Colour variation on the lever may vary slightly from the picture (may have black or silver handlebar clamp).
- Sold individually.
- Brake only, including pads: 250g
- 4-Bolt brake clamps and bolts: 74g
- Total: 324g
Bleed screw requires very little torque, just a 'nip' into place to seal the brake - maximum 0.5Nm. Damage due to over-tightening is not covered by warranty.
To correctly fit the lever to the handlebar, the bolt with the arrows pointing towards it must be gently tightened first until the gap is closed, then the other bolt should be nipped down. Do NOT tighten this bolt right down, normally there will be a gap of around 2-3mm when the lever is tight on the bars. Over-tightening the bolts or not following this procedure is likely to crack the lever clamp and this is not covered under warranty.