
- Features Echo's 'Spanish' BB system, which uses a large press-fit bearing - this gives a longer BB life, whilst still using a strong M15 ISIS spindle. BB is supplied with the frame!
- Neat, CNC machined horizontal dropouts spaced at 116mm offer a larger weld area for the chain and seat stays, giving a stiffer, stronger join.
- Integrated chain tensioners - as featured on the Echo Pure and Echo Trial frames - make getting perfect chain tension easier, as well as taking away the need for snail cams.
- Standard head tube (105mm long) has a large hole machined out to reduce weight.
- Top and down tube gussets at the head tube direct stress away from the ends of the tubes, improving frame life.
- Available with dedicated 4-bolt mounts (spaced at 100mm) and a reinforced IS disc mount, giving you the option to run whichever type of brake you choose.
- Fitted with Echo's new shorter bashplate, providing a stronger plate and mount (total weight 98g, including bolts, washers and rubber).
- Supplied in brushed silver only.
- Weight: 1.458kg frame only. 1.818kg complete (Bashplate, including bolts, washers and rubber: 98g. Steel bottom bracket, including bolts and washers: 262g).
Geometry (Measured with 2012 Echo Urban Fork)
Wheelbase: 1000mm
Chainstay Length: 350mm
BB Rise: +85mm
Centre of BB shell to top centre of head tube: 590mm

































hi i have this frame and echo TR snail cams with a echo tr non disk read hub and no matter what i do my rear wheel keeps moving out of place and all i have to do is undo the axle bolt on the spoket side and most of the time it goes back to the way it was, i was wondering if you knew tricks or ways to stop this from happening? any help would be nice.
Posted by james on 17/05/2012
Reply from TartyBikes on 17/05/2012
Hi James - If you've got the new 2012 frame with integrated tensioners I'd recommend using those tensioners if possible. They tend to work pretty well from our experience! If you've got the older model with snail cam bolts rather than the integrated system, there are a couple of things you can do. The main thing we find when customers have problems keeping chain tension is that rather than the snail cams being at fault, it's the axle bolts and washers that can be the main culprit. Snail cams are mainly there as a setup aid rather than taking the load when you're riding - theoretically it should be your axle bolts that keep the wheel in place. The first step would be to take your axle bolts and washers out and give them a good clean. If you're currently using non-serrated/ridged axle bolt washers then a switch to those would usually help out a lot as it means your bolts can grip the frame better. Next, use plenty of grease to re-install your axle bolts. Using grease allows you to tighten bolts up much more than when they're 'dry', so that can again help keep things in place. Aside from that, giving the dropouts and your snail cams a clean will remove any dirt, grease or lube that may be lurking around there that will also give the setup more of a chance to slip out of place. If you follow those steps that should stop your wheel from slipping. Thanks, Mark